Friday, February 6, 2009

People are starting to care again! I sure hope so.

The Myth of Free Trade

The Problem Is That Countries and Companies Choose Growth Over Sustainability


Lindsey K. Robinson

The Bush administration seems unwilling to see the white elephant in its White House living room. Turning a blind eye on the upcoming Kyoto Protocol and continuing unilateral compromises in the Doha Free Trade agreement, Bush and Co. won't admit that the true culprit to environment degradation, as well as the regression in America's standard of living, loss in manufacturing jobs, growing national debt, and record trade deficits is due to international free trade. "Competitive protectionism is a proven idea with a lot of success. Free trade is historically a relatively new idea with a lot of failure," said Dr. Ravi Batra , international economist, in his book, The Myth of Free Trade. "Free trade has done to the us what Hitler and imperial Japan could not do during the war," he said.

Wasteful investment from intra industry trade and raw materials trade are crippling world economies in many ways. Batra claims together they represent 90 percent of global commerce, yet have no rational economic justification behind them. Since world trade has soared faster than economic activity, trade is a bigger polluter than industrialization-in spite of fuel efficiency. Trade in energy intensity industries reaches far above that of GNP of America and most nations, and continues to rise. Being green doesn't sell as pollution taxes on domestic trans nationals would further put them at a disadvantage in global markets and governments don't want to inhibit world trade, corporate profits and growth.

Destroying the world's resources unnecessarily, free trade increases pollution, and creates higher energy prices, while risking higher global rates of economic contagion (Asian Contagion, Russia and Argentina debt default), and international vulnerability to economic shocks like the OPEC crisis of 1973 or 1979. "By far international trade comes out as the worst villain in the destruction of the environment....Yet about 60 percent of international trade today is of the intra industry variety-another 30% in raw materials...The cost of transporting trade worldwide equals most countries GNPs...(indeed,) air freight fuel consumption almost tripled in just two decades from 1970-1990, emitting millions of tons of nitrogen oxides," said Batra.

According to Global Outlook 2000 every year about 3,000 million tons of crude oil or petroleum products are shipped around the globe. In the process two million tons slip into the marine environment from routine tanker operations like tanks cleaning, oil spills from tankers and platforms.* (Batra).

Indeed, the oil trade is linked to the trade in other goods. "If intra industry trade were eliminated and countries manufactured and produced from their own raw materials, global oil demand would plummet. There would be no need to transport so many goods, materials, and oil across the seas. Global energy prices would fall generating massive growth around the world. Not only would the environment benefit, production costs would also decline thanks to declining energy prices...Few people realize that international trade is the worst polluter among all economist activities," said Batra.

Batra contends that every successful country in the postwar period: Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia, Mayalasia, and Thailand, excluding Germany have become world leaders in trade thanks to competitive protectionism. In contrast, US, Australia and to some extent Canada who adopted freer trade have suffered a drop in real earnings in spite of rising productivity-- what Batra calls agrification syndrome, where Americans continue to loose manufacturing jobs and are suffering declining wages, in spite of their rising productivity.

During GATT's history, "Of the countries US, Great Britain, Australia, India, Italy, Canada, Mexico, France, Japan, Korea, Germany, and Taiwan-only Germany has pursued free trade through much of its history. All others except for India and Mexico became affluent by adopting competitive protectionism over the first two centuries of development," Batra said. Americas demise began with our commitment to free trade beginning in 1973.

Today's joint ventures and regional trade agreements represent a move towards a fairer protectionist free trade agreement, if foreign investment is reciprocal and anti-dumping is enforced. The goal is to bring manufacturing jobs back to America, and keep American foreign manufacturing connected to foreign markets, raw materials and consumers. When multinationals make more money off of hedging derivatives (i.e. currency exchange, swaps, indexing stocks, bonds, interest rates, and commodities), price transfer, cross ownership of subsidiaries or securitizing debt than on products and services, the system is faulty. In fact, cyber money laundering has become such a potential threat as to cause global stock market and international banking financial crises. Everyone is linked by globalization in today's international casino economy.

Batra argues free trade liberalization has caused real falling wages, declining living standards, and the exporting of foreign investment, manufacturing, technology, jobs and capital abroad creating domestic recessions and deflation, seriously disrupting and distorting our economy. "It is free trade, not productivity that has been the real cause of falling wages in industry," said Batra. "If your wages fall sharply while you're working harder and becoming more efficient, the system is broke...Indeed, US productivity has been reaped by foreign labor and the multinationals," he said.

America's steel, auto, electronics, to aviation industries are examples how America has suffered from foreign dumping (i.e. underselling domestic markets with "overcapacity" in the name of free trade). It's made worse where multinationals will own numerous subsidies worldwide, and adjust prices in one country to maximize profits and minimize losses (price transfer), or disguise ownership through shell corporations. Likewise, US multinationals get numerous tax breaks by the American government either to keep their headquarters or manufacturing here or to attract foreigners to set up plants in the US, often unilaterally.

This is a mixed blessing as MNCs can get corporate welfare and sweetheart deals, but use free trade to park profits in tax havens like Boca Ratan, the Cayman islands or Hong Kong. Indeed, many multinationals make more money off of currency exchanges from their foreign subsidiaries than off of business profits. Altogether, trans nationals can inflate profits for earnings reports, or acquisition, or doctor balance sheets, creating losses for tax write offs, IRS or SEC auditing, restructuring or securitization of debt.

In order to revamp America's global competitiveness, Batra's solution is to break up monopolistic corporations world wide to generate intense domestic competition and pre-empt any need for foreign competition. In addition, intra industry trade should be downsized. "MNCs should produce and sell goods in the same nation or swap production facilities in different countries." The current practice of auto manufactures who export to Europe while also importing from European facilities (intra industry trade) is wasteful, and should be eliminated. If European or Japanese set up manufacturing in America, the US should be able to do the same in their countries. If GM plants in Germany or Asia are uneconomical, the US should sell them to Germany/Asia for other types of productivity.

Likewise Batra promotes the advancement of international technology transfer, and the increase of capital transfer in addition to manufacturing, creating foreign domestic jobs, consumer markets, and advancement towards building a banking, credible stock market, and IT (information technology) infrastructure to help non-OECD countries evolve as members of the global market place.

Japan continues to skirt reciprocity rules by investing in NAFTA's manufacturing plants, not in America, but Mexico, where labor is cheap, environmental regulations are low, there are no tariffs and access to high paying consumers are just across the boarder. They have also done this with the Asian Tiger countries and ASEAN, without reciprocity. Instead of shipping goods around the world, Japan should focus on exporting technology and capital in exchange for raw materials for home production. "Investing in mineral rich countries near population centers minimizes international trade. Here the rich mineral, but poor countries should impose high tariffs on foreign developers in order to generate domestic competition. Tariffs would then encourage domestic consumption, and reduce exports," said Batra.

"Migration of factories to mineral rich areas can trim international trade by as much as 25% without reducing global living standards. We can eliminate intra industry trade altogether without much effect on planetary production. Global trade can be cut by at least 75%with out much harm to overall output-benefiting the environment tremendously. Energy use would plummet, oil prices would tumble, oceans would be safer from oil and chemical spills, the atmosphere would be safer," said Batra..

"When free trade fosters services at the expense of manufacturing, productivity growth as well as real earnings decline. Indeed, manufacturing not trade is the main source of prosperity, While trade volume has doubled since 1972, only 17% of the labor force today is employed in the industrial sector. Wages for services and agriculture have declined in real numbers by 19%. Manufacturing salaries are often 150-200% higher than service industry jobs. In retailing, real after-tax earnings now match those of the Great Depression," said Batra.

Being the largest energy consumer and polluter in the world the US had a special responsibility to clean up the environment. Raising average tariffs to 40% would reduce pollution, while promoting competitive protectionism at home and eliminating wasteful intra industry trade.

The upcoming Doha trade rounds in Cancun might consider Batra's notion of the "agrification" of America. However, where US farmers receive hundreds of billions in subsidies, the rest of the country's industries and services are suffering the same plight without the economic crutches. Like increases in farm productivity that aren't rewarded with increased profits, American manufacturing is similarly suffering real declining wages, despite improved efficiency and output. "In fact productivity growth causes their earnings to decline," said Batra.

A history of US unilateral trade concessions reach back to the beginning of GATT to keep free trade and Most Favorite Nation agreements moving forward. The objective to dismantle agricultural subsidies only when the playing field is leveled is missing the mark. . Batra argues protectionism needs another look.

"In spite of the fact that productivity since 1973 has grown by 55% in America, 140% in Germany and a staggering 360% in Japan, at least half, and as much as 80% of the population today is worse off than the 1973," said Batra. America has lost out to cheap foreign labor in manufacturing jobs.

Batra continues the hype that free trade is a myth. "Since 1973 and free trade, the link between real wages and productivity was severed, where its commitment to free trade soared faster than domestic economic activity. Real wages for 80% of the labor force have been steadily shrinking in spite of rising productivity. Free trade skews the real value of manufactured goods, through cheaper foreign labor or weaker foreign currencies in relative prices, despite increased productivity and innovation, in turn creating a shrinking consumer base."

Through tariffs, and a break up of monopolies into small competitive units, America needs to consider a new era in competitive protectionism to increase higher earning jobs at home, competition within industries at home further reducing trade deficits and avoiding foreign tariffs, while keeping consumption at home.

The Newly Industrialized Countries /Asian Tigers (Taiwan, Korea, Indonesia, Mayalasia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand) grew at double digit rates for decades thanks to protectionism, capital formation, domestic rivalry among firms, and government investment. Growth was also accompanied by foreign investment by America and Japan. The Asian economies are recovering from the 1998 crisis in Southeast Asia, much to foreign reinvestment, debt restructuring. Japan, Singapore, Taiwan, and Hong Kong's resilience is also do to having large dollar and gold reserves. Like Japan these Asian tigers continue to have huge trade surpluses with the US.

Joint ventures don't necessarily reduce the intra industry trap. GM has joint ventures with Toyota, Suzuki, Ford and Mazda, Chrysler with Mitsubishi. Yet much foreign ownership or manufacturing is not reciprocal. Five Japanese firms Honda, Mazda, Nissan, Toyota and Europe's Subaru have independent production facilities in the US.

The expression, "when you owe so much money to the bank, they owe you," underlines the fact that Japan owns two-thirds of America's national debt. America has become the world leader in household and national debt, trade deficits, corporate and personal bankruptcies, and the growing inequality gap between rich and poor. Free trade has caused hundreds of thousands of layoffs at Kodak (now bankrupt), Xerox, GE, Chrysler, Exxon, AT&T and IBM, yet these industries are twice as productive as the early 1970s.

US-local firms producing steel, auto, machinery, cameras TVs, VCRs, textiles and shoes, and aircraft have fallen prey to imports from Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Singapore, China and Hong Kong at an alarming pace. Local business have been run out by conglomerate retailers like Wal-Mart who import cheap textiles, and hire cheap domestic labor with no benefits to work their huge retail stores.

"During the early 1930s product prices fell sharply by 24% in a matter of four years from 1929-1933. This price deflation in turn set the US unemployment rate soaring to 25 %," said Batra. Today's part time and McDonald-type jobs mask the real higher unemployment rates. Instead of using Nixon's New Economic Policy intervention in 1971 to address stagnant growth and mounting trade deficits with wage and price freezes, today's Federal Reserve works to continue reducing interest rates now at 1.5% Fed rate a historic low, while Bush promotes tax cuts for businesses and stock dividends to stimulate economic growth. Refinancing and a cheapening of consumer goods have only encouraged Americans to buy more.

In contrast Japan and the Europe continue a more protectionist trade, together with high tariffs, stronger savings and domestic investment. Where Nixon in 1971 was trying to force GATT partners like Europe with their Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) and the Japanese auto and electronics industries to make concessions, America still gets the short end of the stick making unilateral concessions at Doha and the Uruguay Round fighting agriculture, beef and services (i.e. banking, semiconductors and telecommunications equipment) compromises with Europe and tariff reductions with Japan.

"Many don't believe America's living standard has steadily declined since 1973-discounting soaring homelessness, growing urban decay , crumbling roads, and bridges, declining home ownership and shrinking middle class-instead believing that the national measure of well is the GNP," said Batra. During our last major recession in 1992, "GNP was an all time high-who could believe that a nation with the highest ever debt per person is actually at the peak of its prosperity and where American household were the world's biggest borrowers?" said Batra.

Yes some of America's economic quagmire is self-inflicted with its horrible savings rates of less than 3% of disposable income as opposed to over 14% in Germany and Japan, huge credit card debt, low investment, growing federal deficits and overall national debt that has kept interest rates higher in the US than Germany or Japan-creating higher taxes, terms for borrowing, and R&D disadvantages for companies. Yet additional reasons for the declining standard of living, "like America's rate of investment, immigration, the baby boom, or the 1980s merger mania (waves in the 1870s, 1920s, 1950s) nor the oil crisis of '73/'79 (rose sharply 1910 and 1940) fall short, as these events have happened many times before-not generating a three-decade long slide...The true culprit is free trade," said Batra.

And the facade from multilateralism to regional free trade skirts the point of competitive protectionism. NAFTA simply compounds the ills created by America's monopolistic regional free trade. While the US and Canada feel fairly insulated from asymmetric investment shocks, Mexico has suffered great disruptions as a result of opening it border, (i.e. Ross Perot's sucking sound of American jobs going south). During the Mexico crisis of the 1980s foreign MNCs were so big as to outsize or create a stock market crisis thanks to foreign capital flight. The Asian Contagion in '98 similarly created a cul-de-sac of capital flight in Mexico (Japanese and Asian Tiger investments). Likewise, the former East Germany following the 1990 unification was abruptly exposed to intense competition from West Germany and other countries. Both suffered from backward technology, inefficient bloated state monopolies, and the exploitation of cheap labor without benefits.

Batra argues that free trade can cripple an economy if manufacturing erodes. Japan's investment in NAFTA's Maquiladora programs set up manufacturing in Mexico capitalizing on cheaper labor, no unions, closer distribution access to America and tariff free benefits.

Instead of breaking up the Fortune 500 firms to enhance domestic rivalry increasing competitive protectionism within America, deregulation of the 1990s (banking, telecoms, utilities) have created an era of further consolidation and mergers and acquisitions where MNCs haven't been this big since trust busting era of the Carneges, Rockefellers and Melons after the turn of the 1900s.

The old axiom, "what's good for GM is good for America," no longer seems appropriate. Yet, multinationals fear if they don't continue playing the game of the casino economy in the foreign exchange markets, and through unilateral concessions with foreign trans nationals, America's interest to remain the hegemony in the new world order will be in jeopardy.

Thursday, February 5, 2009 Listen to the show Subsidies give textiles a thread of hope

BOB MOON: Ya know, it all depends on your perspective. If China is cheating with its currency, giving its own businesses an edge over foreign competitors. . . . It's a good thing we've got our own house in order on free trade, right?

Actually, take a close look at the latest U.S. Farm Bill and you'll find hints that we're protecting our own industries. Example: A textile subsidy program. It's designed to help cotton mills better compete in the face of growing competition from, uh-huh, China. Not that the fabric and apparel industry can't use the help.

Here's North Carolina Public Radio's Leoneda Inge.


LEONEDA INGE: You need ear-plugs when you walk the spinning floor at Parkdale Mills in Lexington, N.C. Parkdale is one of the top yarn producers in the world.

Raw cotton is cleaned and then pulled into long braids that are automatically fed into machines. The cotton turns into thin yarn before your eyes.

SHANE HAMRICK: It's automatically wrapped, automatically labeled. It's taken off the line and you're ready for shipment.

Shane Hamrick is the plant manager here.

Hamrick has spent all of his career in textiles. He's never been laid off in an industry that's dwindled by 50 percent in the last decade.

HAMRICK: Yeah, with the current climate I feel as good about being here as I would anywhere. I've got friends that work at Wachovia and Bank of America and I think they are a little more unstable than we are right now. So, I feel good about the future.

In 2005 you could hardly find anybody in textiles who felt good about the future. Imports of cotton underwear, socks and pants from China were flooding the market. Tens of thousands of textile workers lost their jobs in the U.S.

Import caps were put in place to slow down the flood, but those expired last month.

Now textile manufacturers are getting support from new subsidies in the Farm Bill. The goal is to help companies like Parkdale stay competitive. The program will pay to up-grade equipment at mills that convert cotton to yarn. Basic manufacturing, but it's a part of the textile industry where the U.S. still leads in terms of output and quality.

Michael Walden is an agricultural economist at North Carolina State University in Raleigh. Walden says the U.S. has a future at the other end of the textile industry.

MICHAEL WALDEN: What's left has moved away from common apparel products to more what I'll call high-tech textile and apparel products, innovative products. Products that have industrial use, products that have military use.

Like the fabric N.C. State developed for the Air Force to make a tent that protects against fire.

Blanton Godfrey is dean of the College of Textiles at N.C. State. He says innovation is the key to the future of the textile industry. We're not talking socks and T-shirts, but components to make cars and sporting equipment.

BLANTON GODFREY: Instead of a truck body being made out of aluminum or in the old days, steel, it's now going to be made out of composites which are textile based, fiber based.

Innovation in new fibers is the future. But the textile industry also sees growth in the fiber that started it all.

This semester the College of Textiles sponsored its first Cotton Couture Fashion Show.

Caitlin Lubatty is a senior in the program. Lubatty says the textile industry is far from dead, it's just different.

CAITLIN LUBATTY: I think of it as an interrelated network of suppliers and manufacturers and designers and everybody is really working together at this point.

Figuring out new ways to work together could be the biggest survival technique of all, in a recession where orders for everything are down.

I'm Leoneda Inge for Marketplace.

India Faces 500,000 Textile Job Losses in Five Months


The Indian textile industry, the country's second-largest foreign exchange earner, will lose half a million jobs by April 2009 due to the global financial crisis, a government official warned on Nov. 21. The sector is estimated to employ around 38 million workers and accounts for about 8% of the gross domestic product of Asia's third-largest economy.

Commerce Secretary G.K. PillaiPillai said the sector was facing a severe crunch because of deepening problems in the world economy, but stressed that New Delhi was cobbling together a package for the "distressed export sector." The Federation of Chambers of Commerce and Industries in a recent study said the sector's growth slipped from 8% in 2005 to 0.8% during April-August this year and warned of massive layoffs in the coming months. The Confederation of Indian Industries (CII) trade lobby also said India's garment exports too dipped by up to 35% during July-September in the current financial year. The textile sector accounts for 20% of India's industrial production and more than 30% of the country's export earnings. Pillai said the overall export growth rate was likely to slide to 10% in the financial year ending March 31, 2009. "The target of $200 billion will come down," he said.

Indian exports grew by over 30% in the first half of the financial year but demand has slumped amid the global slowdown. The U.S. and the EU account for 65% of India's total garments exports. "In the previous financial year, garment exports were $9 billion, but this year they will be around $7.5 billion on account of a slump in demand from the U.S. and EU countries," CII Secretary General D. K. Nair said. Finance Minister P. Chidambaram, meanwhile, urged Indian firms to cut prices to ensure job losses are minimized. "The surest way to ensure that you produce and grow is to cut prices but if someone wants to shut down his factory for three days a week then that is a short-sighted approach," Chidambaram said. "

Industry must reward its loyal workers... avoid retrenchments and layoffs," he told the NDTV news channel after the government warning about textiles.
Copyright Agence France-Presse, 2008

Cumberland County's textile mills have faded away


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Leonard Garner remembers when he realized the textile industry in Cumberland County was dying. As a manager, he had already closed one plant, Tolar-Hart in Massey Hill. He was still a few years away from closing the Elk Yarn plant on Legion Road in 1996, the last in Hope Mills.

“Machinery was so expensive, labor was so hard to get,” he said. “We were suffering tremendously.”

There was a time, Garner said, when textile mills could get by with a bottom line that may not have been quite in the red but in the pink.

“But it got to where it had to be bold black to stay in business,” he said.

Garner said he was “born and raised on my mother’s lunch break in the textile industry.” Cut him open and you might find yarn wrapped around his heart. And he’s not alone.

He’s one of a rapidly disappearing generation of workers who spent decades in the textile mills of Massey Hill and Hope Mills and have since watched the industry slow to a crawl. Wednesday’s announcement that M.J. Soffe is cutting the 107 manufacturing jobs at its Fayetteville plant brings it to a virtual standstill.

That news signaled the end of an industry without which Fayetteville and the surrounding area might never have prospered.

In a generation or two, hardly anyone will remember first-hand the days when textile manufacturing was not only the most powerful engine in Cumberland County’s economy but the core around which towns were built. The mills changed names often as they were bought and sold. And the names of companies and mills are woven into the fabric of local history: Rockfish Manufacturing, Elk Yarn, Dixie Yarns, Burlington Industries, Uniblend.

Spurred by demand for locally grown cotton, mills sprang up in and around Fayetteville thanks to the Cape Fear River and its creeks, which provided a source of power. Part of the flume from the first mill built on the north bank of what is now Hope Mills Lake is still visible.

All but one of the early mills in Fayetteville and Rockfish, as Hope Mills was then known, were destroyed by Sherman’s troops in the Civil War.

“They would have been useful to the Confederacy,” historian Bruce Daws said. “He considered those military targets.”

After the war, the local textile industry grew afresh. Four Rockfish mills spawned the town of Hope Mills, the Holt-Williamson mill opened in Campbellton and three mills opened that would give birth to the Massey Hill neighborhood.

“Everybody thinks of Massey Hill as Massey Hill, but it was three very distinct mill villages,” Daws said.

The villages were named for the mills they grew around: Victory Village, Puritan Village and Tolar-Hart Village. Margaret Bucy was born in Tolar-Hart, which later became Lakedale Village when the mill changed owners.

“It was more like a big family,” she said. “You knew everyone in the village.’’

Bucy, 93, has lived in the same house on Powell Street for 75 years. She worked in the Lakedale plant for 30 years, putting thread on spindles, and watched as her village blended with its neighbors.

Although the visible signs of mill history are rapidly disappearing, some remain. The towering brick chimney between Southern Avenue and Gillespie Street and the nearby dilapidated mill office that Daws reckons would make “a wonderful mill museum.”

But it’s not just buildings that have disappeared. Jobs went, too. Bucy lost hers at the Lakedale plant when it closed in 1975.

“I’d been going to work for 30 years and all of a sudden I didn’t have a job,” Bucy said.

The losses have hit regionally and statewide. The Swift Denim plant in Erwin closed in 2000, costing 740 jobs and gutting the town it had spawned. The following year, the Converse plant in Lumberton closed, taking 500 jobs with it.

The number of manufacturing jobs in Cumberland and Hoke counties has declined by more than 40 percent over the past 15 years, from 15,500 in December 1993 to 9,200 last month, consistent with statewide losses in the same span. But the relative durability of food and pharmaceutical manufacturing masks the profound drops in textile jobs, according to Larry Parker, a spokesman for the N.C. Employment Security Commission.

While local textile manufacturing job loss totals were not available, the number of those jobs statewide dropped 78 percent in the past 15 years, from 182,900 to 40,600.

“That says it all,” Parker said.

Robert Musselwhite found himself out of a maintenance job when the Lakedale plant closed. But there were still other options back then; he worked another 20 years at the Burlington plant in St. Pauls.

“I was out of work one day,” he said.

Musselwhite started working in the Lakedale plant when he was 14.

“That was about the only jobs you had around here was textiles,” said Musselwhite, who is 81.

When Edwin Brower Jr. came home to Hope Mills after a stint in the Navy and degrees from N.C. State and Duke universities, it was expected that he would work in the mills — because his father had just bought them.

Hope Mills owes its existence to textile mills — with four of them known by number — dotted across the village that they boosted to a town. A mill superintendent, Sim Cotton, became the town’s first mayor in 1891.

“Everybody that lived in Hope Mills at one time worked in the mills or knew someone who did,” current Mayor Eddie Dees said.

Brower remembers the 1950s and ’60s as boom decades of local textile manufacturing. But he said he saw the writing on the wall as foreign competition began undercutting prices.

“You can’t compete with somebody that can sell it for a nickle or a dime less than you,” he said.

That left the likes of Leonard Garner with the most distasteful of jobs.

“I became a hatchet man,” he said. “I would take a plant and close it down. It was such a strain to tell people after 20 or 30 years that the plants were closing.”

After Garner had told the 186 employees at Elk Yarn Mills on Legion Road that they were out of a job, the company wanted him to close a plant in South Carolina with 600 employees.

“I said no way,” Garner said. He retired.

But as a manager, Garner at least saw the coming apocalypse and understood it, much as he resented it. Some in Massey Hill still find the death of the local textile industry hard to fathom.

“I couldn’t understand why they were all leaving,” Bucy said. “I never thought I’d live to see all the textile mills leave Massey Hill. I thought they were here forever.”

Textile Coalition Seeks Expansion Of Buy America

James A. Morrissey, Washington Correspondent

A coalition of US textile manufacturers and organized labor is urging House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, D-Calif., to incorporate expanded "Buy America" provisions in the economic stimulus package currently working its way through Congress.

The organizations said the US manufacturing sector "has been bled by trade policies" over the past eight years that have resulted in a $3.5 trillion trade deficit and a loss of 4 million manufacturing jobs.

In a letter to Pelosi, the coalition members said "it is imperative to expand and strengthen statutes and regulations that mandate the purchase of US produced goods and services." They called for expanded "Buy America" provisions in procurement of products for highway transportation and for the Department of Homeland Security (DHS).

The coalition notes that the Surface Transportation Assistance Act of 1982 forbids the Secretary of Transportation to obligate any funds to carry out construction under that act unless the steel and iron and manufactured products being used are produced in the United States. The same requirements apply to some $30 billion to $40 billion funneled annually to states by the Federal Highway Administration for construction of roads, bridges and relate projects. The coalition says Congress has broad flexibility under existing laws to expand such requirements beyond iron and steel components to include such things as machinery, textiles and other raw materials used in highway construction.

The coalition also is seeking expansion of the so-called Berry Amendment's "Buy America" provisions covering defense appropriations and making a similar requirement apply to DHS procurement. The coalition contends that applying the Berry Amendment to DHS procurement would not require any new appropriations, but it would create US jobs right away.

The coalition comprises the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, the National Council of Textile Organizations, the National Textile Association, the United States Industrial Fabrics Institute and UNITE HERE!.

Congressman Larry Kissell!! Thank you Sir!!

The U.S. House of Representatives adopted by voice vote an amendment offered by Congressman Larry Kissell (D-NC) to H.R. 1, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, that would mandate that any textile and apparel products purchased by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s (DHS) Transportation Security Administration (TSA) be made with 100 percent U.S. content. The amendment extends the current Berry Amendment program to the Department of Homeland Security but only would cover prospective procurement of uniforms and other textile product for TSA workers by the U.S. government.

“We would like to thank Congressman Kissell in particular for offering this amendment which has been long sought after by the textile industry. The Kissell Amendment will provide an important stimulus to the U.S. textile and apparel manufacturing sector, which employs almost 470,000 workers in the United States,” said Anderson Warlick, Chairman of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO).

“In addition to our appreciation to the entire House, we would also like to extend a special thanks to the House leadership and Congressmen Bennie Thompson (D-MS), David Price (D-NC), John Spratt (D-SC), Howard Coble (R-NC), and Mike Michaud (D-ME) for their hard work and support in securing passage this amendment that will create many new badly needed U.S. jobs,” said Bruce Raynor, President of UNITE HERE.

“The Kissell Amendment will immediately help textile and apparel companies because it will cover all uniforms purchased by the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) employees. This program can be expanded by the Obama Administration to cover other DHS agencies such as FEMA, U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the U.S. Immigration Service – nearly one hundred thousand uniformed employees in all – and we will be asking the President to make that change,” said Auggie Tantillo, Executive Director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC).

“Another benefit of the Kissell Amendment is that it does not require any additional taxpayer money because it involves programs that are already in place and which are already fully funded,” said Karl Spilhaus, President of the National Textile Association (NTA).

“Now that the House has added this critical amendment to the stimulus package, it is incumbent upon the U.S. Senate to adopt it too. We look forward to working closely with our friends in the Senate to make sure that this happens,” said Kevin M. Burke, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA).

“Enactment of the Kissell Amendment will have an important impact on jobs across the United States because textile and apparel companies often rely on sales of uniforms and other textile products to the government to provide critically needed employment and production,” said Ruth Stephens, Executive Director of the U.S. Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI).

“It should also be noted that the Kissell Amendment was carefully crafted so as not to violate any U.S. trade agreements or obligations,” said Larry McClendon, Chairman of the National Cotton Council (NCC).

The U.S. textile and apparel sector has been hit particularly hard by the economic downturn with 60,000 jobs lost during the past twelve months. In the past year, 44 textile plants have closed, including 14 in North Carolina, 10 in South Carolina, 4 in Georgia, 7 in Alabama, and 7 in Virginia.

Coloring Your Fabric—Without Dyes!

By convention there is color, by convention sweetness, by convention bitterness, but in reality there are atoms and space.-Democritus

With the current emphasis on coloring fabric in a more "eco-friendly" and sustainable manner, alternatives to traditional dyes and dyeing processes are being sought. Also driving these alternatives is concern that some dyes (e.g., azo dyes) produce allergic reactions when contacting the skin of sensitive individuals. But where does one find models for these new coloring schemes? Look no further than the butterfly…

Blue Morpho ButterflyNature often provides us with inspiration that can have practical application (biomimicry). Obviously, the vibrant colors of butterfly wings are not produced by the magic of dyes. Neither are the myriad colors displayed in an opal gemstone. A butterfly's colors (as are the colors in soap bubbles) are produced by a physical process known as iridescence. The process for opal gemstones is uniquely called the play of colors. In both cases, the surface properties of these materials are responsible for producing the colors ("structural color") not a dye ("intrinsic color").

Using natural iridescent features in textiles is not a new development. For example, the wings of beetles from certain beetle families (the Buprestidae family-jewel beetles) have been used as textile embellishments in India, Thailand, Burma, New Guinea, Peru, and Ecuador for centuries.

Dyes absorb light at characteristic frequencies, allowing unabsorbed light frequencies to reach the eye as intrinsic color. The iridescent colors of specially-designed biomimetic surfaces arise from the surface's ability to behave like a diffraction grating—an optical device that acts like a flat prism by breaking up light into its component colors using a grooved surface. In butterfly wings, this is performed by an array of thin scales. The thickness and structure of its surface, and the angle at which it is viewed, determine its color. For textiles, surfaces can be engineered to have similar properties.

Fibers are now available that can add a glimmer of iridescence to fabrics without using dyes. One of these is Tenjin's Morphotex fiber. These fibers use nanotechnology to build layers of nylon and polyester, creating a difference in refractive index that leads to the creation of color through light interference.

Opal

Structural fiber development has taken another step forward with the use of variously-shaped nanoparticles to create color. Juan Hinestroza and his group at Cornell University's College of Human Ecology's Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design have added color, as well as protective abilities, to create "nano-fashion" by applying metal nanoparticles to cotton and to electrospun nylon nanofibers. Color "tuning" depends on the metal used, its size, and shape. The incorporation of opal nanoparticles in polymers to achieve a similar effect is also under study. Although of limited practicality at present, these approaches may eventually lead to affordable alternatives to dyes for textile coloration base on the application of structural color principles.