Friday, February 6, 2009

Cumberland County's textile mills have faded away


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Leonard Garner remembers when he realized the textile industry in Cumberland County was dying. As a manager, he had already closed one plant, Tolar-Hart in Massey Hill. He was still a few years away from closing the Elk Yarn plant on Legion Road in 1996, the last in Hope Mills.

“Machinery was so expensive, labor was so hard to get,” he said. “We were suffering tremendously.”

There was a time, Garner said, when textile mills could get by with a bottom line that may not have been quite in the red but in the pink.

“But it got to where it had to be bold black to stay in business,” he said.

Garner said he was “born and raised on my mother’s lunch break in the textile industry.” Cut him open and you might find yarn wrapped around his heart. And he’s not alone.

He’s one of a rapidly disappearing generation of workers who spent decades in the textile mills of Massey Hill and Hope Mills and have since watched the industry slow to a crawl. Wednesday’s announcement that M.J. Soffe is cutting the 107 manufacturing jobs at its Fayetteville plant brings it to a virtual standstill.

That news signaled the end of an industry without which Fayetteville and the surrounding area might never have prospered.

In a generation or two, hardly anyone will remember first-hand the days when textile manufacturing was not only the most powerful engine in Cumberland County’s economy but the core around which towns were built. The mills changed names often as they were bought and sold. And the names of companies and mills are woven into the fabric of local history: Rockfish Manufacturing, Elk Yarn, Dixie Yarns, Burlington Industries, Uniblend.

Spurred by demand for locally grown cotton, mills sprang up in and around Fayetteville thanks to the Cape Fear River and its creeks, which provided a source of power. Part of the flume from the first mill built on the north bank of what is now Hope Mills Lake is still visible.

All but one of the early mills in Fayetteville and Rockfish, as Hope Mills was then known, were destroyed by Sherman’s troops in the Civil War.

“They would have been useful to the Confederacy,” historian Bruce Daws said. “He considered those military targets.”

After the war, the local textile industry grew afresh. Four Rockfish mills spawned the town of Hope Mills, the Holt-Williamson mill opened in Campbellton and three mills opened that would give birth to the Massey Hill neighborhood.

“Everybody thinks of Massey Hill as Massey Hill, but it was three very distinct mill villages,” Daws said.

The villages were named for the mills they grew around: Victory Village, Puritan Village and Tolar-Hart Village. Margaret Bucy was born in Tolar-Hart, which later became Lakedale Village when the mill changed owners.

“It was more like a big family,” she said. “You knew everyone in the village.’’

Bucy, 93, has lived in the same house on Powell Street for 75 years. She worked in the Lakedale plant for 30 years, putting thread on spindles, and watched as her village blended with its neighbors.

Although the visible signs of mill history are rapidly disappearing, some remain. The towering brick chimney between Southern Avenue and Gillespie Street and the nearby dilapidated mill office that Daws reckons would make “a wonderful mill museum.”

But it’s not just buildings that have disappeared. Jobs went, too. Bucy lost hers at the Lakedale plant when it closed in 1975.

“I’d been going to work for 30 years and all of a sudden I didn’t have a job,” Bucy said.

The losses have hit regionally and statewide. The Swift Denim plant in Erwin closed in 2000, costing 740 jobs and gutting the town it had spawned. The following year, the Converse plant in Lumberton closed, taking 500 jobs with it.

The number of manufacturing jobs in Cumberland and Hoke counties has declined by more than 40 percent over the past 15 years, from 15,500 in December 1993 to 9,200 last month, consistent with statewide losses in the same span. But the relative durability of food and pharmaceutical manufacturing masks the profound drops in textile jobs, according to Larry Parker, a spokesman for the N.C. Employment Security Commission.

While local textile manufacturing job loss totals were not available, the number of those jobs statewide dropped 78 percent in the past 15 years, from 182,900 to 40,600.

“That says it all,” Parker said.

Robert Musselwhite found himself out of a maintenance job when the Lakedale plant closed. But there were still other options back then; he worked another 20 years at the Burlington plant in St. Pauls.

“I was out of work one day,” he said.

Musselwhite started working in the Lakedale plant when he was 14.

“That was about the only jobs you had around here was textiles,” said Musselwhite, who is 81.

When Edwin Brower Jr. came home to Hope Mills after a stint in the Navy and degrees from N.C. State and Duke universities, it was expected that he would work in the mills — because his father had just bought them.

Hope Mills owes its existence to textile mills — with four of them known by number — dotted across the village that they boosted to a town. A mill superintendent, Sim Cotton, became the town’s first mayor in 1891.

“Everybody that lived in Hope Mills at one time worked in the mills or knew someone who did,” current Mayor Eddie Dees said.

Brower remembers the 1950s and ’60s as boom decades of local textile manufacturing. But he said he saw the writing on the wall as foreign competition began undercutting prices.

“You can’t compete with somebody that can sell it for a nickle or a dime less than you,” he said.

That left the likes of Leonard Garner with the most distasteful of jobs.

“I became a hatchet man,” he said. “I would take a plant and close it down. It was such a strain to tell people after 20 or 30 years that the plants were closing.”

After Garner had told the 186 employees at Elk Yarn Mills on Legion Road that they were out of a job, the company wanted him to close a plant in South Carolina with 600 employees.

“I said no way,” Garner said. He retired.

But as a manager, Garner at least saw the coming apocalypse and understood it, much as he resented it. Some in Massey Hill still find the death of the local textile industry hard to fathom.

“I couldn’t understand why they were all leaving,” Bucy said. “I never thought I’d live to see all the textile mills leave Massey Hill. I thought they were here forever.”

Textile Coalition Seeks Expansion Of Buy America

James A. Morrissey, Washington Correspondent

A coalition of US textile manufacturers and organized labor is urging House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, D-Calif., to incorporate expanded "Buy America" provisions in the economic stimulus package currently working its way through Congress.

The organizations said the US manufacturing sector "has been bled by trade policies" over the past eight years that have resulted in a $3.5 trillion trade deficit and a loss of 4 million manufacturing jobs.

In a letter to Pelosi, the coalition members said "it is imperative to expand and strengthen statutes and regulations that mandate the purchase of US produced goods and services." They called for expanded "Buy America" provisions in procurement of products for highway transportation and for the Department of Homeland Security (DHS).

The coalition notes that the Surface Transportation Assistance Act of 1982 forbids the Secretary of Transportation to obligate any funds to carry out construction under that act unless the steel and iron and manufactured products being used are produced in the United States. The same requirements apply to some $30 billion to $40 billion funneled annually to states by the Federal Highway Administration for construction of roads, bridges and relate projects. The coalition says Congress has broad flexibility under existing laws to expand such requirements beyond iron and steel components to include such things as machinery, textiles and other raw materials used in highway construction.

The coalition also is seeking expansion of the so-called Berry Amendment's "Buy America" provisions covering defense appropriations and making a similar requirement apply to DHS procurement. The coalition contends that applying the Berry Amendment to DHS procurement would not require any new appropriations, but it would create US jobs right away.

The coalition comprises the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, the National Council of Textile Organizations, the National Textile Association, the United States Industrial Fabrics Institute and UNITE HERE!.

Congressman Larry Kissell!! Thank you Sir!!

The U.S. House of Representatives adopted by voice vote an amendment offered by Congressman Larry Kissell (D-NC) to H.R. 1, the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, that would mandate that any textile and apparel products purchased by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s (DHS) Transportation Security Administration (TSA) be made with 100 percent U.S. content. The amendment extends the current Berry Amendment program to the Department of Homeland Security but only would cover prospective procurement of uniforms and other textile product for TSA workers by the U.S. government.

“We would like to thank Congressman Kissell in particular for offering this amendment which has been long sought after by the textile industry. The Kissell Amendment will provide an important stimulus to the U.S. textile and apparel manufacturing sector, which employs almost 470,000 workers in the United States,” said Anderson Warlick, Chairman of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO).

“In addition to our appreciation to the entire House, we would also like to extend a special thanks to the House leadership and Congressmen Bennie Thompson (D-MS), David Price (D-NC), John Spratt (D-SC), Howard Coble (R-NC), and Mike Michaud (D-ME) for their hard work and support in securing passage this amendment that will create many new badly needed U.S. jobs,” said Bruce Raynor, President of UNITE HERE.

“The Kissell Amendment will immediately help textile and apparel companies because it will cover all uniforms purchased by the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) employees. This program can be expanded by the Obama Administration to cover other DHS agencies such as FEMA, U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the U.S. Immigration Service – nearly one hundred thousand uniformed employees in all – and we will be asking the President to make that change,” said Auggie Tantillo, Executive Director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC).

“Another benefit of the Kissell Amendment is that it does not require any additional taxpayer money because it involves programs that are already in place and which are already fully funded,” said Karl Spilhaus, President of the National Textile Association (NTA).

“Now that the House has added this critical amendment to the stimulus package, it is incumbent upon the U.S. Senate to adopt it too. We look forward to working closely with our friends in the Senate to make sure that this happens,” said Kevin M. Burke, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA).

“Enactment of the Kissell Amendment will have an important impact on jobs across the United States because textile and apparel companies often rely on sales of uniforms and other textile products to the government to provide critically needed employment and production,” said Ruth Stephens, Executive Director of the U.S. Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI).

“It should also be noted that the Kissell Amendment was carefully crafted so as not to violate any U.S. trade agreements or obligations,” said Larry McClendon, Chairman of the National Cotton Council (NCC).

The U.S. textile and apparel sector has been hit particularly hard by the economic downturn with 60,000 jobs lost during the past twelve months. In the past year, 44 textile plants have closed, including 14 in North Carolina, 10 in South Carolina, 4 in Georgia, 7 in Alabama, and 7 in Virginia.

Coloring Your Fabric—Without Dyes!

By convention there is color, by convention sweetness, by convention bitterness, but in reality there are atoms and space.-Democritus

With the current emphasis on coloring fabric in a more "eco-friendly" and sustainable manner, alternatives to traditional dyes and dyeing processes are being sought. Also driving these alternatives is concern that some dyes (e.g., azo dyes) produce allergic reactions when contacting the skin of sensitive individuals. But where does one find models for these new coloring schemes? Look no further than the butterfly…

Blue Morpho ButterflyNature often provides us with inspiration that can have practical application (biomimicry). Obviously, the vibrant colors of butterfly wings are not produced by the magic of dyes. Neither are the myriad colors displayed in an opal gemstone. A butterfly's colors (as are the colors in soap bubbles) are produced by a physical process known as iridescence. The process for opal gemstones is uniquely called the play of colors. In both cases, the surface properties of these materials are responsible for producing the colors ("structural color") not a dye ("intrinsic color").

Using natural iridescent features in textiles is not a new development. For example, the wings of beetles from certain beetle families (the Buprestidae family-jewel beetles) have been used as textile embellishments in India, Thailand, Burma, New Guinea, Peru, and Ecuador for centuries.

Dyes absorb light at characteristic frequencies, allowing unabsorbed light frequencies to reach the eye as intrinsic color. The iridescent colors of specially-designed biomimetic surfaces arise from the surface's ability to behave like a diffraction grating—an optical device that acts like a flat prism by breaking up light into its component colors using a grooved surface. In butterfly wings, this is performed by an array of thin scales. The thickness and structure of its surface, and the angle at which it is viewed, determine its color. For textiles, surfaces can be engineered to have similar properties.

Fibers are now available that can add a glimmer of iridescence to fabrics without using dyes. One of these is Tenjin's Morphotex fiber. These fibers use nanotechnology to build layers of nylon and polyester, creating a difference in refractive index that leads to the creation of color through light interference.

Opal

Structural fiber development has taken another step forward with the use of variously-shaped nanoparticles to create color. Juan Hinestroza and his group at Cornell University's College of Human Ecology's Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design have added color, as well as protective abilities, to create "nano-fashion" by applying metal nanoparticles to cotton and to electrospun nylon nanofibers. Color "tuning" depends on the metal used, its size, and shape. The incorporation of opal nanoparticles in polymers to achieve a similar effect is also under study. Although of limited practicality at present, these approaches may eventually lead to affordable alternatives to dyes for textile coloration base on the application of structural color principles.

Friday, December 19, 2008


In enclosed, isolated environments, microbes can pose a major health hazard. Think, for example, what could happen with bacterial growth aboard the International Space Station.

The folks at NASA thought a lot about it. And we’re now working with them on special items – clothes, sheets and towels – made from our SILVERion™ antimicrobial fabrics.

To train for the challenges of life aboard the Space Station, astronauts spend time in a confined environment at NASA’s Extreme Environment Mission Operations. The underwater lab, owned by NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), is situated deep in the Atlantic Ocean.

It’s an environment that is moist, enclosed, and isolated – an environment in which bacteria, mold and mildew can thrive and quickly become a problem.

NAFTA, etc...


Veterans of the textile trade here blame most of their woes on cheap labor overseas.

Many in the business say that textiles had begun to wane before the North American Free Trade Agreement went into effect Jan. 1, 1999. They also say that China's admittance into the World Trade Organization in 2001 has caused more damage in North Carolina.

"I didn't lose my job because of NAFTA. I left my job because of NAFTA, among other reasons," said Gil Respess, a former employee of Domestic Manufacturing in Kinston. "The industry had taken a turn for the worst. I just kind of got tired of twiddling my thumbs."

Respess, who worked in the textile business for about 12 years, now teaches. His former employer, Domestic, is one of the few remaining textile producers in Eastern North Carolina.

To stay alive, Domestic's owner, Fred Hunneke, chose the only option many in the industry see available: re-invention. Domestic manufactures specialty fabrics for niche markets to give the company an edge over foreign competition.

"People say, 'If you go to Mexico, you can make it for less,' " Hunneke said. "Well, I'm not in that business. Wouldn't it be nice to create a few jobs locally so we can keep the textile business alive? There are people like that."

Over at Invista - formerly the giant local employer, DuPont - manager Robert Amos says NAFTA has been "neutral to slightly negative on this plant." Only one of the company's competitors has moved to Mexico since NAFTA's inception, Amos said. About 20 have moved to China or elsewhere in Asia.

"Stuff that's made in Mexico is not what's being sold at Wal-Mart," Amos said. "It's coming out of China. The perception is out there that if we hadn't had NAFTA, all these textiles companies would be doing wonderfully. I'm not one who shares that view.

"It's a direct frontal attack from Asia," Amos said. "They can pay $100 a month for what the textile manufacturer here is paying $50 to $100 a day."

Other factors giving China an edge include lack of labor and environmental laws and the absence of a social security system, said Bruce Parson, Kinston-Lenoir County Chamber of Commerce president.



Buy American Act

The Buy American Act (BAA - 41 U.S.C. § 10a–10d) was passed in 1933 by the U.S Congress, which required the United States government to prefer U.S.-made products in its purchases. Other pieces of Federal legislation extend similar requirement to third-party purchases that utilize Federal funds, such as highway and transit programs.

In certain government procurements, the requirement purchase may be waived if purchasing the material domestically would burden the government with an unreasonable cost (the price differential between the domestic product and an identical foreign-sourced product exceeds a certain percentage of the price offered by the foreign supplier), if the product is not available domestically in sufficient quantity or quality, or if doing so is in the public interest.

The President has the authority to waive the Buy American Act within the terms of a reciprocal agreement or otherwise in response to the provision of reciprocal treatment to U.S. producers. Under the 1979 General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) Government Procurement Code, the U.S.-Israel Free Trade Agreement, the U.S.-Canada Free Trade Agreement, and the World Trade Organization (WTO) 1996 Agreement on Government Procurement (GPA), the United States provides access to the government procurement of certain U.S. agencies for goods from the other parties to those agreements. However, the Buy American Act was excluded from the GPA's coverage.